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Lao-grown coffee is regarded as among the world’s best. Traditionally, pure Lao coffee is roasted by wholesalers, ground by vendors and filtered through a sock-like cloth bag just before serving. The result is thick, black, strong and delicious. Increasingly, however, restaurants and hotels in particular are serving Nescafe or similar instant coffee to foreigners. To make sure you get real Lao coffee asks for kqa-feh Ida (Lao coffee) or kqa-feh bph-ldan (old-fashioned coffee). Brewed coffee is usually served in small glasses and mixed with sugar and a startling amount of sweetened condensed milk. Once you've mixed it all up it's delicious, but if you don't want either be sure to specify kqa-feh dqm (black coffee) followed with baw sai ndm-tqan (without sugar). An almost addictive variation is oh-liang (iced coffee with condensed milk and sugar). Only in better hotels and restaurants will you find real milk. In central and southern Laos coffee is almost always served with a chaser of hot ndm sda (weak and often lukewarm Chinese tea), while in the north it's typically served with a glass of plain hot water. Both Indian-style (black) and Chinese-style (green or semicured) teas are served in Laos, some of the latter now being grown on the Bolaven Plateau and elsewhere. An order of sáa hâwn (hot tea) usually results in a cup (or glass) of black tea with sugar and condensed milk. As with coffee you must specify beforehand if you want black tea without milk and/or sugar. Ask for sáa hâwn followed by baw sai nóm (without milk) and/or baw sai nâm-tqan (without sugar). Chinese tea is traditionally served in restaurants for free. For stronger fresh Chinese tea, request sáa jjin. |