Laos has no facilities for major medical emer­gencies. The state-run hospitals and clinics are among the worst in Southeast Asia in terms of the standards of hygiene, staff training, supplies and equipment, and the availability of medicines.                                                

For minor to moderate conditions, including malaria, Mahasot International Clinic (021- at 214022) in Vientiane has a decent reputation.

For any serious conditions, you're better off going to Thailand. If a medical problem can wait until you're in Bangkok, then all the better, as there are excellent hospitals there.

For medical emergencies that can't be de­layed before reaching Bangkok, you can call ambulances from nearby Nong Khai or Udon Thani in Thailand. Nong Khai Wattana General Hospital ((§ 0066 4246 5201; fax 4246 S210) in Nong Khai is the closest. The better Aek Udon Hospi­tal (@ 0066 4234 2555; www.aekudon.com) in Udon Thani is an hour further from the border by road. Lao Westcoast Helicopter ((BJ 021-512023; laowestcoast.laopdr.com; Hangar 703, Wattay International Airport), will fly emergency patients to Udon Thani for about US$1500, subject to aircraft availability and government permission. Si Makharin Hospital (@ 0066 4323 7602/6) is further away in Khon Kaen but is supposed to be the best medical facility in northeastern Thai­land. From any of these hospitals, patients can be transferred to Bangkok if necessary. Self-treatment may be appropriate if your problem is minor (eg traveller's diarrhoea), you are carrying the appropriate medication and you cannot attend a recommended clinic. If you think you may have a serious disease, especially malaria, do not waste time - travel to the nearest quality facility. It is always better to be assessed by a doctor than to rely on self-treatment.

Buying medication over the counter is not recommended, as fake medications and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs are com­mon in Laos.