NORTHERN WILDERNESS     

Two to Three Weeks/Luang Nam Tha to Xieng Khuang

This route explores the mountains and plateaus of the north. Start in Luang Nam Tha Province with a trek into the Mam Ha NPA or through hill-tribe villages near Muang Sing and Muang Long

Head from Luang Nam Tha - via Phongsali if you have the time and adventurous spirit - to super-laid-back NongKhiaw soaking up northern Lao life along the Nam Ou (Ou River) and taking hikes to limestone caves. Crossing the Nam Ou, climb higher into the Annamite Chain through Hmong villages till you reach remote Sam Neua Near here the com­munist Pathet Lao, with help from the North Vietnamese Army, took shelter in huge caverns in ViengXai and mounted a successful campaign to seize control of the country. Sam Neua is also known for intricately patterned hand-woven textiles.

South of Sam Neua, en route to NamNoenstands SuanHin where ancient megaliths are arranged in patterns that remain a total enigma to locals and scholars alike.

From Sam Neua a lengthy road trip southwest leads to Phonsavan the fast-growing capital of Xieng Khuang Province. Here one of the main attractions is a large plateau scattered with hundreds of monumental and mysterious lidded stone jars, known as the Plain of Jars

BOLAVEN & BEYOND                             

 10 to 14 days/Pakse to Paksi

This trip into the remote provinces of southern Laos can be done by private vehicle, including small motorbikes, or more slowly - but more socially - by public transport. It's best in the dry season.

After a day or two getting organised in Pakse, head up onto the Bolaven Plateau and to Laos's most impressive waterfall at Tat Fan, At the coffee capital of Paksong you could stop to buy some Java before continuing on to Sekong, passing through Laven, Katang and other villages en route. If the river is full enough, head down the Se Kong (see Dowin the Se Kong by Longtail Boat) in a boat for an unforgettable trip ink Attape. Sleepy is an easy place to hang out interrupt your sunsets-by-the-Se Kong with a bumpy day trip out to the Ho Chi Minh Trail village of Pa-am, and an overnight homestay in the Se Pian NPA.

Head back up Rte 16, through Sekong and turn north at Tha Taeng on long, downhill laterite road to Beng. Check out Salavan for a day and if the season is right, arrange transport along the rarely travelled road to Tahoy, once an important marker on the Ho Chi Minh Trail and now a more peaceful but thoroughly remote home of the Ta-oy (Tahoy) people.

Beautiful Tat Lo and its inevitable backpackers will be a shock after days with little, if any, contact with Westerners, and Utayan Bajiang Champasi makes an attractive lunch spot on the easy trip back to Pakse.