No matter where you are in Laos the practice of phli (spirit) worship - some­times called animism - won't be far away. Phli worship pre-dates Buddhism and despite being officially banned it remains the dominant non-Buddhist belief system. But for most Lao it is not a matter of Buddhism or spirit wor­ship. Instead established Buddhist beliefs coexist peacefully with respect for the phii that are believed to inhabit natural objects. An obvious example of this coexistence is the 'spirit house', which you'll see in or outside almost every home. Spirit houses are often ornately decorated temples, built as a home for the local spirit. Residents must share their space with the spirit and go to great lengths to keep it happy, offering enough incense and food that the spirit won't make trouble for them. Vientiane you can see Buddhism and spirit worship side-by-side at Wat Si Muang. The central image at the temple is not a Buddha figure but the lak meuang (city pillar), in which the guardian spirit for the city is believed to reside. Many local residents make daily offerings before the pillar,

While at the same time praying to a Buddha figure. A form of phli worship

You might actually partake in is the baasii ceremony; see opposite.

Outside the Mekong River valley, the phii cult is particularly strong among the tribal Thai, especially the Thai Dam, who pay special attention to a class of phii called then. The then are earth spirits that preside not only over the plants and soil, but over entire districts as well. The Thai Dam also believe in the 32 khwdn (guardian spirits). M&w (master/shaman), who are specially trained in the propitiation and exorcism of spirits, preside at important Thai Dam festivals and ceremonies. It is possible to see some of the spiritual beliefs and taboos in action by staying in a Katang village during a trek into the forests of Dong Phu Vieng NPA. The Hmong-Mien tribes also practise animism, plus ancestral worship. Some Hmong groups recognise a pre-eminent spirit that presides over all earth spirits; others do not. The Akha, Lisu and other Tibeto-Burman groups mix animism and ancestor cults.