Long-distance public transport in Laos is either by bus or sawngthaew (literally 'two rows'), which are converted pick-ups or trucks with benches down either side. Buses are more frequent and go further than ever before in Laos, and destinations that were all but in­accessible a few years ago now see regular services. Private operators have established services on some busier routes - particularly along Rte 13 and on international routes -offering faster and more-luxurious air-con buses, known as VIP buses, which are also pretty good value at about US$2 per 100km -about 1.5 times the normal bus price.

That's not to say local buses have disap­peared completely. Far from it. You can still do the main routes by local bus, and on most jour­neys off Rte 13 you won't have any option.

If you can't live without your air-con, it's worth booking ahead. You'll usually have to go to the bus station to do this, though in­creasingly guesthouses can book tickets for a small fee. For an idea of prices, see the boxed text Leaving Vientiane By Bus

Sawngthaew usually service shorter routes within a given province. Most decent-sized villages have at least one sawngthaew, which will run to the provincial capital and back most days. Like local buses, they stop wher­ever you want but are generally slower given that the roads they ply are usually unpaved. And, given that everyone is sitting on-top-of/facing each other, they're even more so­cial than the bus.

The final type of transport is the lot doi saan (wooden bus). These big, rumbling trucks with wooden cabins built on the back with forward facing seats were once the mainstay of Lao transport. They can handle the worst road conditions and these days that's where you'll find them - on routes that are unpassable to anything else.